We already refreshed steering, brakes, anti-roll bar and suspension so only front wheel hubs requires still a bit of attention. Not too much, especially if we later replace them by Lublin hubs in order to install front disk brakes (since considering it, not entirely sure it is worth the trouble).
When we refreshed the brakes, the hub was removed and painted. As described then : the hub is attached with one M24 nut (36 hexagonal key), but it should not very tight, secured by a 5×40 pin that will need to be replaced afterwards.
So it is just enough to drop the cover, the M24, the specific big washer and the main part of the outer wheel bearing should come of. Then the hub itself should come, along with the drum brakes.
Finally, on the inside side, the should be a radial shaft seal to remove first, to be able to then remove the main part of the inner wheel bearing.
Then, it is required to remove the secondary part of each wheel bearing: the cage. The removal is tremendously easy: there are places to position a screwdriver to be hammered.
Next step is convenient to do with an hydraulic press. For each hub, we need two new bearings (30207A and 30305A, not to be confused, the smaller being the outer one) and a new radial shaft seal (20-3103038-2). It is just a matter of properly positioning them and using the old used cages to push them in.
Once done, we fill the (previously cleaned) hub with new grease ŁT-45. If I were in France, I might have been tempted to put Belleville grease instead but one thing is important with grease is not to mix them unless you are sure they are fully compatible. So I prefer sticking to the factory-recommendation that is easy to get by.
And then back, we put the hub back, we turn the wheel back and forth, then we tighten the crown nut to a torque of 100…120 N·m until there is clear resistance of the bearing, then unscrew the nut by 1/6 turn and finally secure the crown nut with a new 5×40 pin. Beware, after a few kilometers, the hub will require to be checked for excessive heat.
At this point, the vehicle should be loaded, on smooth horizontal surface and the tyres probably inflated (that is, in this case, 0,25 MPa in front, 0,32 MPa at the rear).
First let’s mention that I won’t bother at this point with the caster angle (chasse in french) or the camber (carrossage) and only focus on toe (parellélisme). If anything, this will have to be done once new rims and tyres will be on.
On the other end, toe should remain valid no matter the wheels. In the case of the Żuk, the driver manual suggest an easy way to regularly adjust it. We just have to do a few measures.
These measures must be done precisely enough at the same point on each rims (center height).
- First we measure B, and mark the measure point (tape, chalk, etc).
- Then we move the vehicle forward so the mark are exactly on the opposite – so do a 180° turn.
- Then we measure A reusing the previous marks.
- The difference between B and A determines toe. And the manual said we want B – A = 1,5…3,0.
To adjust it, we play with the steering tie rods.
Once adjusted, the manual recommands the intersections of the rod (where is it cut) to face either the sky or the ground (± 30°). The brackets themselves should be approximatively 10 mm from the end of the rod.
In my case, I had B = 122 and A = 123,5 – quite wrong, unsurprisingly consider the highly irregular tyres wear.
That’s all. And obviously these will require to be checked once again later, the vehicle will be back on the road.
30207-A FAG Łożysko stożkowe 35x72x18,25 = wheel bearing 30207-A (2 x 75,10 zł)
30305-A FAG Łożysko stożkowe 25x62x18,25 = wheel bearing 30305-A (2 x 72,30 zł)
Uszczelniacz piasty przedniej Żuk 48×72,5×10 = radial shaft seal (2 x 5,20 zł)
smar łożyskowy tawot ŁT-43 10 kg = ŁT-43 grease 10 Kg (90 zł)
kosztuje = 150,20 + 144,60 + 10,40 + 90 = 395 zł = 92 €. Żukventure cost so far = 3844 + 92 = 3936 €