Bummer, images were deleted by mistake on this post (and many others). They’ll be, hopefully, uploaded once again later.
I bought a 449 zł TS5-21 gearbox (nr 12869) on allegro taken off a Lublin 3372 from 1997, given with a one month warranty. Obviously, it is not like if I was in the situation to test it one month after buying it, but I assume it means that the seller consider it to be working. A regenerated would have been much more expensive, probably double the price. And one with no warranty even cheaper.
I picked on purpose a box from a model from around the same age as the Żuk, even though there should not be any compatibility issues otherwise.
It was a bit dirty. Cleaning it up only shown one issue: the top cover (pokrywa posrednia 779057783, yellow in the picture – item identification was made using Lublin 3 parts list) was slightly chomped on the side.
top cover replacement and lever choice
How the top cover was damaged was not dramatic. Well. But I had to change the dead plastic covers (blue in the picture) of the gear shift, which requires to remove this top cover. And all the 4 imbus bolts (red in the picture) holding it where completely dead, their head just composed of rust (likely consequence of the torn plastic covers), to a point that no technique I tried worked (even completely remove the head with a drill and trying to detach the top cover). My attempts only resulted in further chomps on the side of the top cover.
I contacted GAZPARTS, that deals with Andorian engine components as asked if, by any chance, they could provide a new top cover. They did, for 35 zł! I also got from them, for 75 zł, a new gear shift, Lublin type, because its base seems quite different than the Żuk type. Their length seems similar: in any case, I am not looking for a short knob, not considering cutting any!
In any case, I recommend GAZPARTS, they were fast to reply even for a small request and small order as mine.
The old cut lever-base was tough to remove – stuck. I actually cut through a big part of it with the angle-grinder so to increase its heat without having to cook the rest of the area. Once hot, it got off no problem.
Then I just angle-grinded the old top cover in a way to save what could remain of the 4 imbus bolts, in order to be able to remove them properly. And I was then able to put back in place new plastic cover, new top covert and new imbus bolts (Ø 5mm x 20 mm, not so common).
I decided not to the change reverse gear sensor (that was faulty on the A13.1 gearbox) but without spoiling everything I can already say I should have; and so we’ll count it as bought already. My model is the old type 563.12.00 and not the new type 563.14.00, and is worth 25 zł. I think the only difference are the connectors.
Not much to say about it. I forgot the price of the plastic cover that came along but it was not much.
gearbox casing paint
I noticed that some people like to paint engines and gearboxes and tried to find if it made any sense here. From what I gathered, some claims that if car manufacturers usually keep gearboxes and engines unpainted, it is because it is not necessary to prevent rust in a 5/10 years time span (unlike for other painted part that are not made with the same materials) and so it helps them staying within regulation margins regarding the amount of paint used to produce a car. Some others point out that even though paint would prevent the slow corrosion of gearbox and engine casings, this is only true and efficient if it is entirely and perfectly waterproof, otherwise it might actually trap humidity and accelerate the corrosion instead of preventing it. I think it is safe to conclude that it does not makes sense to paint my TS5-21.
Another topic to consider is that the odometer might no longer be accurate. It is not entirely clear to me which part would differ and cause that, so I’ll just keep this in mind for later (but if you have clues, you are welcome to enlighten me).
Final important point is the oil selection. It will be poured into the gearbox only when in place (why carrying it with the extra weight?) but choosing one is on topic here. In 1997, FPS Tczew listed oils tested to work succesfully with its gearboxes. There is plenty of choice for the TS5-21. I went for the Mobil Mobilube 1SHC (API GL 4/GL 5, MIL-L-2105D), which amounts to 92 zł for 2 liters. I also got some fluid supposed to prevent gearbox leaks, not entirely sure it if it useful at all.
Shortened drive shaft with Lublin flange
As said earlier, TS5-21 being longer than A13.1 gearbox, the drive shaft must be shortened accordindly. The first part must be of 700 – 105 = 595 mm. It won’t change anything else regarding how the whole drive shaft is set up per se. ŻUK Kazik describes the work done by Metmax they entrusted to shortened their drive shaft of 105 mm for 350 zł.
One thing is sure, cutting and welding a drive shaft is serious business that cannot be done willy-nilly. Not only it has to resist massive torque (whatever the engine and gearbox can come up with) but it needs to be perfectly balanced (and homokinetic, etc). When you actually check how much cost a new drive shaft, you then realize it is definitely not a car part you can do savings about.
I considered sending my drive shaft to Metmax too. The price would have been similar for the shortening, but I also need the gearbox side end to match Lublin 6x M8 bolts flange instead of the original 4x M10 bolts flange (which ŻUK Kazik did not do: I guess they changed the flange on the gearbox itself at a later point). That would increase the price and with shipping the total would be around 700 zł (if I remember well).
But there is a shop in town (well, in town… on the countryside part of town) named ZEM – Wały Napędowe Wrocław, that seems serious. They proposed similar pricing than Metmax and so I decided to drop them the drive shaft and save shipping cost and delay.
They knew their business, no need to describe Lublin flange etc.
The middle part with wheel bearings (AA in figure 3.21) was a in pity state so they suggested to change it for a hundred złoty more. I knew I could get this part cheaper over the net but felt it was more convenient to let ZEM handle the drive shaft fully.
The drive shaft shorter of 105 mm with a Lublin type end flange cost me in the end 780 zł, more than what I thought initially. But that is probably also tied to my lack of polish-market-negociatings skills. In any case, the result seems perfect (we’ll see in the long run obviously but I am confident).
So, this part cost
skrzynia biegów 5 biegowa FS Lublin 3372 = 5-speed FS Lublin 3372 gearbox (440 zł)
pręt dźwigni zmiany biegów = gearbox shift rod (75 zł)
pokrywa posrednia = top cover (35 zł)
osłona dźwigni zmiany biegów TS5 (110.307.051 and 110.307.052) = plastic covers (12 + 18 zł)
wyłącznik świateł cofania TS5 563.12.00 = reverse gear sensor (25 zł)
olej Mobil Mobilube 1SHC przekladniowy syntetyczny = 1l synthetic oil Mobil Mobilube 1SHC (2x 46 zł)
Lublin widełki łapa sprężyna sprzęgła = clutch fork with spring (33 zł)
sprężyna sprzęgła do tulei Lublin = springs require with the clutch fork (2x 2 zł)
naprawa/regeneracja wału napędowego = drive shaft repair/regeneration (780 zł)
kosztuje = 440 + 75 + 35 + 12 + 18 + 25 + 33 + 4 + 92 + 780 = 1514 = 349 € ; Żukventure cost so far = 3205+ 349 = 3554 €
- (summary: why and how)
- drop the drive shaft and the A13.1 gearbox;
- replace the flywheel to Lublin-type and install a new clutch;
- adjust chassis elements that would not adapt to the TS5-21 gearbox dimensions: gearbox support, handbrake support;
- prepare TS5-21 gearbox and the drive shaft;
- mount the TS5-21 gearbox along with the revised drive shaft;
- finally setting up the gearbox support within parameters.