XXXIII. Likely rust spots on Żuk and tools to work around

After quite some time spent preparing the Żuk for paint, I can tell now that wherever there was visible rust on the Żuk body when I acquired it, it actually meant a hole. It requires some work to get rid of it. In some cases, even with low standards, I guess you would have to replace a whole panel. Not a big drama, some shops like Moto-Trans.pl often have such parts available (I do not know how well they adjust, though).

I noticed many Żuk on sale have some visible rust spots where I found rust on mine so here is a proposal of place to check for rust, place where I assume it likely to appear due to the  Żuk design:

body

  1. (blue) under the joints of windows: that is often the case on old vehicules, not much a surprise, especially on windscreen and rear window; when buying, check under the joints;
  2. (orange, part 26) on the corners of the cabin’s steps to front seats ;
  3. (red, part 21) below the rear lateral door: this one seems a bad design problem, it comes from the reinforcement bar that installed just behind (I’ll probably write an article about it) and, on mine, that was the main rust issue found so far, by far;
  4. (green) lower part of junction of body panels;
  5. (purple) edge of the second (both sides) junction chassis/body shell (which could be quite critical), visible in the engine bay.

body-split.pngenginebay.png

Please feel free to suggest any other common spot I missed.

The toolset I’m using to wipe rust is quite common. What you really should not forget is the thing currently mounted (sorry, no clue how is it called in english) on the angle grinder, this specific circular metal brush. This saves a lot of time and performs properly in many places. Not as agressive as the regular angle grinder disk but much more effective than similar brushes mounted on a driller (not pictured but which are still useful for tight corners), plus not too taxing on the tool, since the grinder is meant for such work (cutting non-stop and subjected to strong force perpendicular to the rotation axle), unlike a driller. And strangely enough, not all shops sell this thing: in Wrocław you’ll find it in Castorama in Magnolia shopping mall but not in Castorama and Leroy Merlin at ul. Graniczna. There are not out of stock, they simply do not sell it. And protective glasses are not optional with this, not kidding, it throws a lot of stuff all around.

IMG_20170814_153801.jpg

Obviously, you need the heavy machinery for rust area. Otherwise, you’ll likely simply use sanding disk and paper sheets, like 80 for starters for the bottom of the body and 120/150 otherwise, then go gradually to 220, 400, 600, whatever you expect as end result. In my case, I used 400 and 600 only as wet papers for the finish of specifics parts. But I am going for an industrial-looking old van, not a Jaguar!

(I should add this stuff to the expense counter but counting this is a bit too much for too little for me)

4 thoughts on “XXXIII. Likely rust spots on Żuk and tools to work around

  1. Great blog entry! I wish I had seen this guide before I bought mine. My Zuk is rusty in all of these places.. so diagram would look like a rainbow! I guess I will continue… Better the devil you know and all that… 😉

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    1. Being a van often used in farms and such, I guess many Żuk were not garaged, so I guess it would hard to find a model on sale with none of these.

      The purple issue should be cured in priority. Not only because it is not just a panel but where chassis and body are attached but also because that is probably one of the most annoying to replace panel (I do not see it happening without completely removing the body from the chassis).

      Like

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